The basics of poker strategy in cash games: Turn and river

In this article we'll talk about the basics of the game on the turn and river in Texas hold'em. It is not necessary to consider the tips below as a comprehensive guide – rather, we have tried to compile a collection of basic rules that everyone should know a novice player. They will allow you to play your hands at the low limits, however, the more expensive your game, the more techniques you will have to add to your Arsenal for turn and river.
Divide the game on the turn and river into two categories, as the game on the flop to the aggressor and the strategy for Collier. It is worth noting that when you were on the turn, you already should have an idea of the rough range of your opponent – what he might call or raise on the flop. It is difficult to overestimate the value of this information, as the turn and river are the most creative streets in the entire game.
The game on the turn as the aggressor
On the turn, as a rule, you decide which Bank to play big or small. If you bet on the river Bank will be 30-40 big blinds. If you do a check – 17-20. In this regard, it is particularly important to remember a key rule for low-limit: a large hands – large banks, weak hands small. 
If you were the aggressor preflop and the flop, turn and river rarely will put you in a difficult position. We need only be guided by a simple idea: never make a check with strong hands, never try to play their "monsters" slowly, never bluff with garbage.
All recommendations for the bet size on the turn and river are no different from those for the flop – if you decide to do Beth, its size should be 2/3-3/4 of the current pot.
With good hands such as top pair, a set, two pair on the turn should be done only when the check came the fourth card to the straight or flush. In all other cases it makes sense to bet even if you have an overpair and the turn paired the highest card on the flop, opponents at the lower limits very often will give you money with weak holdings like second pair.
Remember that if you check out of position on the opponent, then it must necessarily follow fold – never call bets with weak hands (in relative strength, as, for example, 66 on 76Q2 where all four cards of the same suit) without a position, "not believing" in the strong hand of the opponent. It will not bring you nothing but huge losses, because you violate the basic principle of the game – giving the initiative and a position in the opponent's hand. 
The exception may be except that the top pair with a weak kicker on a completely safe boards without a draw with them is permissible sometimes to do a check and call bets out of position because you have almost always the best, but not a very strong hand.
Someone may object: but what about top pair and over pair, if on the turn came a third card to the flush or the third card to a straight? You should not be afraid of such boards and to make the bet, because your opponents may well not flush, and only flush draw. Flash this is a rare hand from a mathematical point of view. Usually, medium and weak hands your opponent (provided that you hold top pair) will be 2-2.5 times more than similar flush on the turn. And your opponents are much more likely to call with a weak hand than bet with it themselves.
As for secondary arms, second and third pairs, in this phase, you should do a check in position. Out of position – check with the intention to fold his hand in response to a bet from his opponent. With weak pairs you will often hope for a cheap showdown against weak hands. We should not think that all your opponents will bet his weaker hands on the turn in response on your check. Don't forget that those weak hands in their ranges were not so many, because they have made the call preflop and then call on the flop – it does need quite a good hand. Therefore, your second pair may well be weaker than the opponent's hand after his bet on the turn.
The only exception is a situation when you had top pair on the flop and on the turn came the highest card. For example, a JT3 flop and the turn came A. In this case, you should make the turn bet with his Jack (say, KJ), because high cards rarely helps your opponent, except for rare hands like AJ or AT, so there is no reason to fear them. 
It's time to ask the question: what if you made a bet with a good hand and the opponent responded with a raise? 
If on the turn or river card you bet and got raised you should fold everything except the hands named below. You must ALWAYS fold your over pair and top pair on the turn in response to the raise of your opponent. If you're holding two pair and better, you need to go all-in in response to raise from your opponent. With the following hands is to fold in response to the raise of the opponent:
A weak flush on a Board with four cards to a flush (weak here will be considered any flash not on K or A)
Weak straights on boards with four cards to a straight (strong here will be considered any nenadovic and weak street).
Any straights when the turn came a third or fourth card to the flush
Any set or two pair on the Board, where are three or four cards to flush
If the size of opponent's stack is so small that is 1.5-2 pot size on the turn to your bet, it is permissible to call all-in or to go all in on the rest of the money with hands like top pair with a good kicker and a strong draw or better, if on the turn came the fourth card to the straight or flush.
When you can bluff on the turn? Consider a few basic situations. 
First, the best hands to continue betting on the turn are draws. If you have a flush draw on the Board with two cards to a flush or straight draw, in many cases, Beth will be the best solution. However, you still do not forget that betting with a draw is still a bluff, so you hope that the opponent will throw their cards. So you should avoid the following situations:
Do not put with flush draw (unless you have And or suit) on the Board with three cards to a flush, because the opponent will almost certainly call with many hands
Don't bet with flush draw on the Board with four cards to a straight
Do not put with straight-draw on the Board with three obvious cards to a straight (for example, K2JT when you have A3)
Don't put draw when the turn paired the eldest or the second card on the flop, or the range your opponent could grow (Board K2JT a good illustration of this idea)
Of course, if you turned out to be a very strong draw, combining as straight-draw and flush draw, he should put on the Board with three cards to a straight on the Board with three cards to the flush. Against a raise with these draws it is advisable to just call and see the river, hoping to get his outs. The exceptions are boards with three cards to flash you should reset your monster draw. 
Fold to a raise must be done with any regular USB flash or straight draw they have little chance to improve if required investment of money in the Bank.
By analogy with weak pairs, if you have a hand that you cannot bet out of position, the alternative can only serve as a check and a fold – you don't want to call Beth from the opponent out of position with a bluff?
Not to bet with a draw is possible if you have a pair plus a draw with such a combination you can check, in position, because you have no good reason to bluff (because sometimes your pair will be the best hand, and you have a backup plan in the form of a draw). Out of position check and the call is allowed to do only if you have second or top pair with some kind of draw.
Another good situation to bluff will be output in one of the older cards on the turn. They are also called "terrible" cards. Most often it is A, K or Q came on the turn, for example, on the boards J52, T94 or 763. By and large, the term "terrible" applies to any turn, which is older than the highest card on the flop. The fact that these cards often do not help the player without the initiative, but the pre-flop aggressor could well get one of the older cards, as it almost always will make them continuation bet on any flop.
After placing a bid on one of these turns you almost always have to continue the aggression on the river you are going to expect a fold from the second pairs on the flop, but the flop with top pair will rarely take off on "scary turn", preferring to wait for the river.
When not to bluff on the turn?
Try not to start a meaningless bluff with a trash hand when you have no hope for improvement. Also try to rarely put on the "bad" boards, and with a weak hatsutabi (which will not give you the best street whose street will be obvious) – these are the worst hands to bluff in this street trading.
The river play as the aggressor
If you did everything correctly on the turn, the river play in the lower limits will seem a mere trifle – you will already know a lot about your opponent's range, and this means that most decisions will be easy. 
And while many rightly argue that the river play is the hardest, it should worry only at medium to high limits. Often the complexity of the river due to the involvement ranges from the good players, but for beginners it is enough for the rules described below.
Of course, you should continue to put up with all the strongest hand – finished flushes, straights, sets, two pairs and top pairs. Check for safe Board with a good hand can be seen only sometimes and only with top pairs with low kickers (positions them better to bet out of position – sometimes doing a check, hoping to bluff from his opponent). The range check should also be supplemented and all of the second and third pairs. With them out of position to do a check and fold on the bet. Not worth it with top pair and over pair to a set on the Rivera, where he closed one of the obvious draws or your opponent could get two pairs – disciplined check/fold is the best decision.